| 4.2D or 4.2 Petrol or 3Litre petrol -
Posted on 22-08-2008 05:26 |
 User deleted!
|
A_Deleted_User
Rank 1
Awards:
None
|
Posts: 0
Location: nowhere
Joined: 01.01.70
 |
|
Hi..just joined and have a few q's. I'm looking for a lwb gq early 90's. Important criteria must have low mileagae. Have selected a couple to follow up on and need some good advice. I understand the diesel will go on forever so what sort of maximum mileage should i be looking at if i want to purchase a diesel. Have seen many around the 280,000 k's which seems high if i am looking for a low maintenence car. After all the whole car has done the milkeage, not just the motor. What is the situation with the 4.2 petrol manual and auto regarding reliability and fuel consumption? Are there any built in faults i should be wary of? What about the 3 litre? Too small in a big car? Have seen a 92 which has only done 91000 k's. Would i be better off with a high mileage diesel than a low mileage petrol 4.2 or 3 litre?
I have seen a low mileage 4.2D dx but no aircon which is a bummer as i trek down to Melb several times a year down the Newell with my trusty long haired German Shep who starts to feel the heat when it gets over 15C...which is often here near Tin Can. Is there an after market air con that can be fitted or can one be purchased from a wreckers and if so which wreckers specialises in Patrols? Many thanks for any answers. |
  |
| RE: 4.2D or 4.2 Petrol or 3Litre petrol -
Posted on 22-08-2008 15:17 |
| User deleted!
|
A_Deleted_User
Rank 1
Awards:
None
|
Posts: 0
Location: nowhere
Joined: 01.01.70
|
|
OK, not sure where to begin but here goes.
Engine selection really comes down to what you want to do with the vehicle. If you intend to do a bit of towing, 4WDing or beach driving - (well you do live near but not in Tin Can Bay), then you should stick to the bigger motors. The 3 litre (RB30) is underpowered for such a big vehicle, and really is only suited to around town driving.
The TD42 (4.2 diesel) is as tough as old saddle leather, reasonably economical, but a bit on the slow side. The TD42 takes very well to having a turbo fitted, even after the engines done 2-300,000km's.
Your other option would be to have an LPG system fitted. This would give you a mild power increase and make the vehicle more economical to run. Not sure what the availabillity of LPG is like in your part of the world. Very few TD42's came to Australia with auto transmissions. Fuel consumption depends how you drive it, but average would be about 12 to 14l/100kms.
The TB42 is also a strong reliable motor, with good torque for towing and 4WDing etc, but is less economical than the TD42. Ther are two versions of the TB42, pre 1992 had a carby, post 1992 had fuel injection and electronic ignition (TB42E). For my money the later EFI motor is the pick of the two ( I've had 3 Patrols, the first and now my current Patrol have been GQ 4.2 EFI's). The EFI motor is a bit more powerful and economical than its carby predessor.
Most petol engined Patrols will already have an LPG system of some sort fitted, which makes them a lot cheaper to live with.
It's not hard to find petrol Patrols with auto trans fitted, there are plenty about, but they are a bit heavier on fuel than the manuals.
Fuel consumption would average about 16 to 18l/100kms, 14 to 16l/100kms for EFI models.
Another option is the RD28T (2.8 turbo diesel) engine. It's best suited to city and highway driving, not so good for 4WDing or towing due to a relative lack of torque (you really need to keep the revs above 2500rpm to keep the turbo on boost and making reasonable power).
Being a smaller engine it has to work harder than the bigger engines, so I wouldn't expect it to last as long, but they still seem to be a reliable motor. Average about 14l/100kms.
The most common cause of premature engine death in Patrols (not counting early GU ZD30's, thats another story!), is lack of coolant. Fitting a low coolant sensor is a good idea and cheap insurance.
Your right when you say the whole car does the milage, not just the engine, but then 250,000 highway km's are better than 150,000 bush/4WDing kms, whatever the engine. You need to asses each car individually, if it shakes rattles and rolls when you drive it, keep looking.
Aftermarket A/C is available and is preferable to second hand.
My pick, go for the 4.2 EFI with LPG, but then I'm biased towards them.
Tony |
|
|
| RE: 4.2D or 4.2 Petrol or 3Litre petrol -
Posted on 22-08-2008 15:28 |
| User deleted!
|
A_Deleted_User
Rank 1
Awards:
None
|
Posts: 0
Location: nowhere
Joined: 01.01.70
|
|
Many thanks Tony. Have just spotted a 4.2 auto petrol TI with 190,000 ks? What is a TI??? I am also looking at a 91 4.2 diesel auto which has 175000 k's and many many extras (which i don't really need) like a snorkel uhf and cb radio etc. Is the auto a good box. Personally i hate them and have never had an auto. UGH!!!.The car will primarily be used as a work car to take plants to our local market and tow a light trailer, and 4 or 5 trips per year to Melb. No cruise control on these cars? Tutt tutt!!! Any good after market ones about? Will not be used for 4wdriving or bush. I just need the space. So, would the auto be ok? I believe a turbo addition is around $3700, about the price of a whole car!!!!
Edited by on 22-08-2008 16:04 |
|
|
| RE: 4.2D or 4.2 Petrol or 3Litre petrol -
Posted on 22-08-2008 19:34 |
| User deleted!
|
A_Deleted_User
Rank 1
Awards:
None
|
Posts: 0
Location: nowhere
Joined: 01.01.70
|
|
How about a 4.8 auto petrol ?
More economical than the 4.2 petrol.
Smooth to drive, plenty of power, no need to turbo charge.
A 2001 or 2002 model are now quite cheap to buy, (I know of one in Mackay, low km's, about 60k, perfect condition, aprox $20,000, if you're interested I can give more details.)
Take one for a test drive at a car yard, I'm sure you won't be disappointed.
It might be hard to find a low milage early '90 model Patrol.
This user has been deleted! |
|
|
| RE: 4.2D or 4.2 Petrol or 3Litre petrol -
Posted on 08-09-2008 05:16 |
| User deleted!
|
A_Deleted_User
Rank 1
Awards:
None
|
Posts: 0
Location: nowhere
Joined: 01.01.70
|
|
|
Once again thanks for all your replies. Have decided on a 91 4.2 diesel manual dx model with 280,000 and service history mainly because i know the car and the people. What is the lack of coolant info in this thread (is it radiator coolant) and what is a coolant sensor and where do i get one fitted? Now this car has sunraysia wheels and develops a wobble at about a hundred and although they have taken it to many places to try and rid the car of this problem they have been told it is inherent in these Nissans? Is this true and how can i get rid of this as i do a lot of Gympie to Melbourne driving and it would be most uncomfortable as most speeds would be sitting on a 100 or so? |
|
|
| RE: RE: 4.2D or 4.2 Petrol or 3Litre petrol -
Posted on 09-09-2008 15:50 |
| User deleted!
|
A_Deleted_User
Rank 1
Awards:
None
|
Posts: 0
Location: nowhere
Joined: 01.01.70
|
|
Good choice of car, but give yourself plenty of time to go places, standard 4.2 diesel is not exactly fast.
It was radiator coolant I was talking about. The factory temperature gauge reads coolant temperature not air temperature, once you loose your coolant the temp gauge will drop and you may be tempted to keep driving thinking nothing is wrong ( I've heard several stories of people driving Patrols who have had the temp gauge go up for a while then drop, the driver thought whatever had caused the overheating had corrected itself and kept driving, only to have the motor seize minutes later. An expensive mistake).
I got my low coolant sensor from VDO at Archerfield, and fitted it myself. You might be best talking to someone like Red Devil who specialize in cooling systems.
As for the wheel wobble at 100km/h, it is not inherent, but it is common. It is difficult to suggest what to try next as I don't know what you have already tried. Have a look at the thread "GQ SWB TYRES" for some ideas.
Tony
Edited by on 09-09-2008 15:55 |
|
|
| RE: patrol -
Posted on 10-09-2008 04:52 |
| User deleted!
|
A_Deleted_User
Rank 1
Awards:
None
|
Posts: 0
Location: nowhere
Joined: 01.01.70
|
|
Thanks for your info. I hope my 2000k trips to Melb will be done in good time once the patrol gets going. No cruise control..what were Nissan thinking..nobody going to do long trips in them? I presume aftermarket cruise control kits are avail? I guess the biggest prob is getting the get up and go to overtake the large trucks barreling along. Will need plenty of free road to get past them.
Car has a 3" lift kit. Does this affect stability of the car at hwy speeds of 110 plus a bit if nobody is looking?
I was advised that they can be turboed but at $3700 don't think the cost is justified as the car has done 280,000. Will look at a turbo model or the injected petrol perhaps in a year or so.
I thought the wobbles may have been caused by the oversize sunraysias which seem popular on these cars and was wondering if mags would be a better option than the steel.
Will look at the tyre thread. Haven't picked up the car yet. Still two weeks to go as sellers are on hols in NZ. |
|
|
| RE: RE: patrol -
Posted on 10-09-2008 18:13 |
| User deleted!
|
A_Deleted_User
Rank 1
Awards:
None
|
Posts: 0
Location: nowhere
Joined: 01.01.70
|
|
Cruise control kits are available.
If the suspension lift is not done properly it can have a detrimental effect on stabillity. 3" lift needs castor correction, if it's not corrected the vehicle will tend to wander (caster gives your steering self centering). Some vehicles may also need the back of the gearbox spaced down to correct driveline angles, only necessary if you get a high frequency vibration through the vehicle body at higher speeds.
If you suspect your tyres or wheels are causing the wobbles, see if you can borrow a set of wheels off another car and see what effect that has. There is nothing wrong with steel wheels if they are in good condition. I have 16 x 8 ROH sunraysiers with 285/75 R16 BFG A/T's (soon to be replaced, worn out). I have had these wheels and tyres on my GU and current GQ, neither have had straight line wobbles while cruising. My vibrations in the GQ happend only after going over sharp bumps and more recently under brakes, worse with trailer on. Main cause was worn drag link rod ends.
Tony
Edited by on 10-09-2008 18:33 |
|
|
